Greg's Philly Mediterranean / Middle Eastern Food Faves

Ariana Fine Afghan Cuisine

Rating:  
★★★★☆
Cost:  
$$
134 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106
https://www.restaurantariana.com/

Situated between Iran and Pakistan, Afghanistan's cuisine has influences from Persia and the Middle East as well as India. Their kabobs are spectacular...but what grilled meat is not? I am also a huge fan of their Palow and Chalow chicken or lamb stew dishes served over basmati rice. The Buranee Kadu (sautéed pumpkin topped with yogurt and meat sauce) is a unique and delicious culinary experience. There is a low table where you sit on on carpets on the floor with pillows and eat in a more traditional style.  It is a truly unique experience (for Philadelphia...).

Barbuzzo

Rating:  
★★★★★
Cost:  
$$
110 South 13th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19107
http://barbuzzo.com/

Barbuzzo defines itself as a Mediterranean restaurant, but I would classify it as more Italian. Whatever the case, it is hard to get a reservation because the food is so damned delicious.  I haven't been since I found out that I can no longer eat gluten, but their pizzas are always delicious, as are their pasta dishes. My favorite is Tufoli: wide pasta served with a Sunday supper pork ragu sauce and broccoli rabe, basil, provolone cheese, and herbed breadcrumbs. It's one of the best pastas I've had in the city of Philadelphia.

Barbuzzo is part of the empire of restaurateurs Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran, and I would argue their best.

Dizengoff Hummus

Rating:  
★★★★★
Cost:  
$
1625 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103
https://www.dizengoffhummus.com/

Winner of the 2017 James Beard Award for Best Chef in America, Michael Solomonov branched out from his amazing Zahav restaurant to add a few small hummus shops to his empire. His hummus is the best you can get. At Dizengoff (which also has locations in University City and in the Whole Foods at 2101 Pennsylvania Avenue in Philly), you can get his delicious hummus plain or topped with a rotating menu of glorious and delicious toppings, including both vegetarian and meat toppings. They serve it with a bright little side salad and freshly baked pita bread. The shop on Sansom Street is tiny, so be prepared to wait for a seat (or do takeout). You will have no problem finding a seat at the Whole Foods location, and there are other wonderful places owned by Chef Solomonov there as well, including Goldie (falafel) and his amazing Federal Donuts, that serves incredible fried chicken in addition to the best donuts you will ever put in your mouth.

Estia

Rating:  
★★★★★
Cost:  
$$$
1405-07 Locust Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102
https://estiarestaurant.com/philadelphia-pa/philadelphia-pa.asp

Estia is my favorite Greek restaurant in the city. Their appetizers are a delightful way to start the meal, especially the Estia Chips: thinly sliced zucchini and eggplant, seasoned and lightly floured, fried to a delicate crispiness, and served with a thick, bold tzatziki sauce. The grilled octopus appetizer is the best that I have had anywhere in the world. They have a front-loading clothes washing machine that has never held clothes or detergent. Rather, it is filled with octopus, cold water, and sea salt to gently tumble and therefore tenderize the octopus before it is grilled to perfection. Cooking octopus is like cooking squid: if you screw it up, it is slightly more tender than rubber tire inner tubes. There are no such worries at Estia: after charcoal grilling it to perfection, they dress it lightly with an vinaigrette dressing, toss it with red and sweet onions, dill, roasted peppers, capers, and parsley and serve it immediately. It has the consistency of delicate, succulent chicken. Literally the best octopus I have ever eaten anywhere in the world.

For main courses, they do fish better than anyone else in the city of Philadelphia.  You can get a whole fish (yes, with the eyes) grilled to perfection, but they will bring it to you to show you how it has been flawlessly cooked, then take it away and take the fish off the bones for you. Easy! Fish is served with a magical emulsion of olive oil and lemon. I gave up trying to duplicate it at home a long time ago. It's so good that you will want to get some for an IV drip. For lamb lovers, the Arni Trahana is a must: fall-off-the-bone lamb cooked in onions, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, and a hint of cinnamon (WOW!), the sauce from which is used to cook orzo pasta which is mixed with Greek cheese and served under the braised lamb shank. Their lamb chops are also out of this world (marinated overnight in lemon juice, olive oil, and garlic).

Their wine selection is great, and I have grown very fond of the Greek red Agioritiko (pronounced "eye your ih tea co"). The Greek desserts (which I can no longer eat since they contain gluten) are wonderful, including the Ekmek, crispy shredded dough topped with a layer of creamy custard.

Halal Food Carts

Rating:  
★★★☆☆
Cost:  
$
Everywhere in Philly

You will see Halal lunch carts everywhere in Philly. My favorite things is chicken over rice. They cook the chicken right in the cart and serve it over rice with a side salad and your choice of a white yogurt sauce, hot sauce, or both. The chicken is cooked in a red sauce that reminds me of Indian biryani, but whatever it is, it is delicious. My usual is chicken over rice, a salad with no onions, and white sauce only over everything. You also get a drink with your meal, along with a fork, napkins, and a bag in which to carry it all away.

It costs only $5...FIVE BUCKS!!!

You really can't beat the price, and the flavors are fabulous. Don't knock it until you try it.

Zahav

Rating:  
★★★★★
Cost:  
$$$
237 St. James Place, Philadelphia, PA 19106
http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/

Zahav is my favorite restaurant on the entire planet. No question.

Chef Michael Solomonov is an utter culinary genius. Don't take my word for it: he won the prestigious James Beard award in 2017 for Outstanding Chef of the Year. That makes it impossible to get a reservation at Zahav. Zahav is the Hebrew word for "gold", and Chef Solomonov certainly has the golden touch. He has amassed a culinary empire in Philadelphia, but Zahav is clearly the jewel in the crown.

The meal starts with hummus and laffa bread baked in their wood-fired oven along with salatim–small salads packed with mind-blowing flavors. My favorite salads include the smoky twice-roasted eggplant, sweet red pepper and carrot, and creamy beet salads. I heard Chef Solomonov describe how he invented the recipe for the latter salad in person.

When Chef Solomonov wrote the Zahav cookbook, he did a book signing at the restaurant, and of course I bought a ticket to attend. Chef Solomonov was asked how he came up with recipes. He describe the process for his marvelous beet with tahina salad: beets are sweet, he said, and you need to pair that in a dish with something bitter. What is bitter, he asked? Tahina (ground sesame seeds, also known as tahini). Those two ingredients, along with garlic, lemon juice, cumin, and complementary herbal notes from fresh dill and fresh mint make this recipe utterly magical. As one has more and more culinary experiences, it becomes an increasingly rare surprise to be able to taste something truly new and exciting.  This recipe was one such surprise. I took my sister (the ex-Restaurant Critic and Food Editor at Philadelphia magazine) to Zahav, and she loved the salad, even though she hates beets. Chef Solomonov was in the restaurant that night after our meal, and when my sister approached him to ask him to sign her copy of his cookbook, she told him, "You are a fucking genius!" I fully agree.

Anyhow, the hummus and salatim are just the start. An interlude includes small plates (mezze), my favorite of which is fried cauliflower served with a creamy herbed labneh (yogurt-like) sauce. I know what you are thinking: how can cauliflower be amazing. Trust me. It is. Next come grilled dishes (Al Ha’esh) like skewers of lamb merguez sausage, hanger steak, or branzino. The real star of the show comes last: their fall-off-the-bone lamb shoulder cooked with chick peas in a sweet and savory pomegranate molasses, served with a fabulous Persian wedding rice. The selection of wonderful Israeli and Middle Eastern wines make for amazing pairings.

The bad news is that since winning the James Beard award, it is impossible to get reservations for Zahav. The good news is that you can just show up and, if you can get a seat at the bar, order everything on the menu. It's worth it, as the food tastes exactly the same no matter where you sit.

I have met Chef Solomonov several times, and he is a warm, humble person. With his success, he could be a complete asshole, but he is just a truly lovely human being in person. Zahav is a truly magical experience, and Chef Solomonov is an utter genius. Experience it!